Axolotl basics. What do I need? – Gary The Axolotl
Based on my experience
Here I’m just going to talk about the materials you need to start your axolotl tank. Keep in mind that you have to set up your axolotl tank at least 3 weeks before getting him/her as the cycling takes 3 to 8 weeks and your baby can’t be in it when it cycles.
See how to cycle a tank here.
Tank Size
We personally have a 190L (50 Gallon) with the following dimension W120 x L45 x H35cm / W47,2 x L17,7 x H13,7 inches.
I do not recommend having a small tank to start with because your axolotl is going to grow really fast. Unfortunately for us we got a 60L tank to start with because the pet shop told us it would be a good size even for when Gary would be an adult, which was not…
It felt really big at first when he was 3 months old measuring 6cm (2,3′) but now with his adult size we needed to upgrade his tank already.
In the end I recommend to take 120L and add an additional 20L-30L per axolotl if you want more than one. The best would be 100cm long and 35-40cm large, 30cm height.
I also recommend having more floor space than height as your axolotl will mostly walk at the bottom.
Filtration
You can have any type of filtration as long as you keep the water flow to a minimum as axolotls doesn’t like it. It’s recommended to have a filter that can process double the capacity of your tank.
For example if you have a 100L take a 200 capacity filter.
We currently use a canister filter. People always ask me how my tank is always crystal clear. Well now you have the answer.
Sponge filter are highly recommended for axolotls, they provide a good biological filtration and they have no water flow I tried one but I ended up not using it because my air pump was too powerful for it and was really loud bubbling.
Substrate
Bare bottom is the way to go for axolotls under 13cm (5′) after that, you can add fine sand so they can grip onto something when they walk, or dance like Gary does sometimes.
Do not put any gravel or pebbles in the tank. Any pebbles or rocks should be at least twice the size of your axolotl’s head as axolotls can eat them by accident and cause impaction to them and die. (please if you ever see an axolotl on gravel or pebbles, even in a pet shop, tell them really nicely to change their substrate)
Some people also use fake grass, make sure it’s aquarium safe if you want to use this.
Decoration
Axolotls need at least two hides in the aquarium. It make them feel safe and they can rest. Make sure there’s no harsh edges and sand them down if possible. Axolotls have really fragile skin, a little pointy corner can hurt them.
As for plants it’s up to you if you want fake or live but they have less chance to get hurt by live plants. If you choose live plants make sure to take those who don’t require a lot of light, like Anubias, Java fern, Java moss, Moss ball etc.
Light
As we already know, Axolotls don’t have eyelids so a bright light can be really hard on them. No light is the way to go but if you really want a light, consider taking one that is not too bright and provide your axolotl a lot of hides and shadow area.
Air stone/ Bubbler
Not necessary but I personally recommend it. This will help in two ways, oxygenate your water and break the water surface for water movement. Gary loves it and play with the bubbles.
Water Conditioner / Dechlorinator
Your tap water probably contain Chlorine and/or Chloramine. The safest water conditioner I know is Seachem Prime. I use it every time I have to add tap water to my tank. If you use another dechlorinator, make sure to check the ingredients on the product page as all the ingredients are not listed behind the bottle. You want to know if they use iodine or aloe vera which are harmful to your axolotl. I know that tetra aquasafe use iodine, it’s written on their website but not on the bottle so do not use this one.
Forget about the Strips water test, they are not accurate.
What you want is a proper kit with drops like the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. You will need it more than you think, plus you can pretend to be a mad scientist and that is priceless!
The first thing you want to know when your axolotl have any trouble is your parameters. PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate. You always want your parameters to be as following (you need to have those readings after your tank have cycled, I will develop this in another post) :
PH : Between 7 to 8,2
Ammonia : 0
Nitrite : 0
Nitrate : between 10-20
Water quality is essential for axolotls as they breath through their skin, and gills.
Thermometer
Ideal temperature for axolotls is between 16°-18°c (60-65F) until 20°c (68°F) it’s ok but not ideal and over that it’s gonna stress your axolotl, at 24°c (75°F) and over your axolotl is most likely gonna die if kept under those temperature for too long.
Always have a temperature monitor on your tank so you can see directly if anything is wrong.
I’ve been testing a tone of thermometer but the most accurate one I found is the infrared thermometer.
Water Chiller
You already know about axolotls requirement for temperature and the best way to keep your tank safe from temperature swing and from warming up is a water chiller. It’s really hard to always stay between those temperatures without a water chiller. We live in the UK and it’s never too hot here but during summer it’s hell. It will stress you and you might loose your axolotl so a water chiller is essential. It does cost a lot £250-350£ but I can assure you it is worth all the money.
I know it’s a strange one but it is soo useful. A Turkey baster will help you spot clean your axolotl’s waste or catch back a dendro worm or pellet without getting your hands wet. If you tank is deep you can have a long version one.
Siphon Pump
Like the turkey baster, this is a must have. It will save you when the water change time is gonna come plus you can also clean the bottom of your tank with it.
✧༺♥༻∞ ∞༺♥༻✧
When I first had Gary, I couldn’t find that much answers on all the questions I was having, I really hope it helped you. That’s all for this post.
Have a nice day and see you soon!
✧｡･ﾟﾟ･ Moony ･ﾟﾟ･｡✧